Introducing Cheaney’s new versatile range of winter-friendly footwear (and what to wear with them)

“It’s totally impossible to be well-dressed in cheap shoes,” once said celebrated Savile Row designer Sir Edwin Hardy Amies. Luckily, since at least 1886, discerning gents have been able to count on Joseph Cheaney & Sons – one of the great makers that has helped create Northamptonshire into the epicentre of Britain’s shoemaking industry – to take care of things in the footwear department. From cutting the leather to giving each product its final buff, every part of the Cheaney creative process is done by over 120 pairs of skilled artisanal hands at the company’s factory, using only high-grade, premium materials and with a bulk of designs drawing upon the renowned Goodyear Welt – a construction that has long been a hallmark of great design, and one that allows the shoe to be resoled time after time for years to come.

But, despite its deep heritage and its instant access to over 135 years of crafting expertise, the label isn’t entrenched and suffocated by what’s come before. “At Cheaney, we believe that classic styles gain their reputation not by refusing to change, but through their ability to adapt to a world of constant variation,” says the company.

‘Kaber C’ derby boots

‘Kaber C’ derby boots

And it is this ethos of melding tradition with the contemporary that defines Cheaney’s recently released AW’22 collection. Within the range, heritage sensibilities come in the form of classic and rugged silhouettes, as well as traditional, timeless hues, all of which is underpinned, quite literally, by the Goodyear Welt, a feature that may have been produced decades ago, but whose benefits (namely the fact its repairability prevents your favourite shoes from hitting landfill) have always had the future in mind.

Giving the new line a modern slant are the use of kudu leather (a byproduct that may otherwise have gone to waste), which makes for a sturdy yet soft material; a dedicated Eco-Aware collection that updates classic Cheaney brogues with eco-friendly oiled leathers; and packaging (boxes and shoe bags) that is produced from recycled materials.

Below, we take a look at the highlights from the new line – from high-ankle boots to low-lying hybrids – and note some style tips on what you should pair them with.

‘Wilfred’ Oxford semi-brogue

‘Wilfred’ Oxford semi-brogue

‘Carlton’ derby-brogue

‘Carlton’ derby-brogue

Part of the AW’22 classic selection is a pick of high-quality, low-maintenance leather options in vibrant tones. The ‘Wilfred’ Oxford semi-brogue in hand-burnished dark-leaf calf leather, for instance, is one of the most adaptable options in Cheaney’s entire range, and was produced in 2011 as part of Cheaney’s 125th anniversary. Its classic but slim profile, almond toe, and colour (neither too dark nor too light) makes it wearable with both off-duty and more formal ensembles. Its hybrid nature – it has the ‘closed’ lacing system of an Oxford shoe, as well as the perforated detailing of a traditional brogue – only adds to its versatile quality. Elsewhere, the ‘Carlton’, another cross-category creation, but this time with an ‘open’ lace, is finished in black bookbinder leather that provides a distinguishing sheen.

What to pair them with: For these pared-back, barely embellished pieces, go for items that are equally timeless; perhaps a pair of slim-cut navy chinos, a crew-neck marl-grey jumper, and a well-cut mac – all can be made either smarter or more informal, depending on the accessories that you add to your ensemble.

‘Purdey GV Buckshot’ derby-brogue boot

As a specialist in countrywear, Cheaney has a firm footing in creating protective foundations in which to trod fields, meadows and lanes during the colder months – the ‘Purdey GV Buckshot’ derby-brogue boot arrives in a rich, fully lined mahogany grain leather, which allows for a bold, but not brash, statement when walking through bucolic settings. For something to wear back at the cottage, consider the ‘Kaber C’ derby boots, whose Repello suede is water resistant, making it stand out from its more conventional counterparts. Its clean look also allows the suppleness of the material to shine.

What to pair them with: A couple of rural-appropriate wears should do the trick here; to battle the breeze, we’d nudge you towards packing some cashmere-knit rollnecks, flannel trousers and a padded gilet.

‘Tweed GV’ derby-brogue boot

‘Tweed GV’ derby-brogue boot

One of the main draws of Cheaney is that it’s always produced consciously by purveying slow-fashion products that offer longevity. In an effort to further cut down its carbon footprint, the company has created an edit that draws upon locally sourced materials, including sustainable leathers by CF Stead, which uses chrome- and metal-free tannage. Additionally, the cork-bottom fillers used – provided by a local merchant – are also eco-friendly, and the boxes and shoes bags in which the items arrive are created from regenerated material. The pick of the lot are the ‘Tweed GV’ derby-brogue boots – a rugged yet streamlined option, they’re designed in a husk leather that will take on a beautiful patina over time.

What to pair them with: Consider picking up other environmentally friendly items, such as long sleeve T-shirts in recycled cotton, shirts in organic linen, or jumpers from responsibly sourced down.

Want more sustainable fashion? We explain what tencel is, and how it could whip your wardrobe into shape…

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