With no break-in period, milled calf is Crockett & Jones’s most supple leather yet

Words: Josh Lee

In association with:

Now that we’re fully swathed in the deep depths of July, it’s likely that you’ve synced into the lyrical rhythms of the summer, spraying citrus-forward fragrances onto the pulse points, opting for easygoing, seasonal fare and, of course, steering your sartorial decisions towards lighter pieces: straight-cut chinos, camp-collar shirts, classic sun-friendly frames and, for the occasional dressed-up event, unstructured jackets.

When it comes to footwear, the sturdy foundations of any ensemble, members of Gentleman’s Journal have been reaching for stripped-back white sneakers and trusty, take-anywhere chukka boots, as is the case every summer. But further elevating this specific area in recent weeks has been Crockett & Jones’s latest Spring/Summer 2023 line, ‘The Riviera Collection’, a curated selection of off-duty, European-style loafers whose unstructured build lends them a feel of unrivalled suppleness and comfort, the details of which have been lovingly covered by us here.

Incredibly flexible, yet completely repairable, the range revolves around a trio of models – one with tassels, another with a penny slot, and a third with minimal trimmings – that come in either calf suede or milled calf, and it is the virtues of the latter material that we’re honing in on today.

The material is the latest leather from the storied shoemaker, and, in basic terms, revolves around premium aniline calf, which comprises a calf base-layer that has aniline dyes applied to it during the drumming step of the tanning process, in which the leather softens and takes on a texture similar to that of a fine glove. In contrast with Scotch grain, milled calf is not embossed, and, due to its rarity and exclusive nature, the use of the stuff is rapidly becoming less frequent.

When it comes to its true boon, milled calf is coveted for its exceptionally soft, graceful touch – the ‘most supple leather we have ever used’, says Crockett & Jones, who first tested the material on a low-cut Chelsea boot, a chukka boot and a Derby – meaning that no break-in period is required (as is often the case with finely crafted pairs of shoes) and that a comfortable and fuss-free wearing experience is a sure thing, a notion that is further enhanced by the use of the label’s new Superflex leather sole, which, as its moniker implies, makes for an easygoing tread.

When both features are dovetailed into a single design, weekend walks along coasts, up promenades and throughout piazzas this season will be as breezy as the fine summer climes.

Want more from Crockett & Jones’s new collection? We dive deep into the range, here…

Become a Gentleman’s Journal member. Find out more here.

Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?

Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.

Click here to find out more