Dark and decadent, these are the very best Blancs de Noirs champagnes
If you’re throwing a get-together for gourmets this Christmas, here’s why you should spend the party season on the dark side…
Come the festive season, the thirst to impress our guests runs deeper and more intense than ever. How will our humble soirées stack up against the rest? When is the perfect moment to throw our party? And what corks should we be popping to stand out from the sparkling crowd?
It’s a tricky time. Thankfully, we’ve found a flute-filler that’ll quench and enthral even the most demanding dinner party attendees. And, though we’ll leave the dress codes and decorations to you, we’ll also make you this promise; nothing will cause a seasonal stir like a deep, decadent Blanc de Noirs champagne.
It translates from the French as ‘white from black’. And, while this indulgent form of fizz — created using solely Pinot Noir grapes (with the occasional dash of Pinot Meunier) — may look like normal champagne, such bottlings are considerably more extravagant and epicurean than your standard Spumante. They are robust wines; bubbly, yes, but with a creamy mouthfeel and silky, sensual texture. Here are six of the finest…
Bollinger PN TX17
Not every Grandes Marques offers this opulent spin on champagne. But Bollinger does — the esteemed house founded almost two centuries ago, in 1829. And this sparkling twist on the traditional style is a minimalist, modern-looking Blanc de Noirs with a monochromatic label and a pinky hue. Expect a particularly fine mousse and notes of orchard fruits, baked apple, brioche and stone fruits from peach to apricot.
Billecart-Salmon Rendez-vous No.2 Pinot Noir
Like Bollinger’s numerically-named ‘PN TX17’ above, this recently rebranded bottling from Billecart-Salmon is a thoroughly modern offering. It also bucks the darkly-branded trend with an off-white label. Created from the historic terroirs of the Montagne de Reims, the fizz itself boasts aromas of cherry blossom and violet on the nose. Slightly peppery on the palate, other flavours include candied lemon, tangerine and liquorice.
Louis Roederer Brut Vintage 2014
One-upping the contemporary branding of the Billecart-Salmon and the Bollinger, Louis Roederer’s modern twist extends beyond label design — with a shot of Chardonnay bringing its Pinot Noir content down to 80% and unlocking rich notes of toasted nuts and brioche. Once uncorked, you’ll enjoy a biscuity bouquet of mirabelle plums and red berries, before sipping subtler notes of lemon, almond and unassumingly fragrant florals.
Palmer & Co. Blanc de Noirs NV
Next, we come to the wider world of Blancs de Noirs; starting with the affordable-but-admired bubbles of Champagne Palmer & Co’s drupe-inflected fizz. With an impressive 450 hectares of vineyards (over 200 of which are classified Grand and Premier Crus) this lesser-known house has created a real tastebud-turner of a champagne — fizzing with unexpected, delectable notes of fruits from grapefruit to gooseberry.
Krug Clos d’Ambonnay 2002
And then there’s Krug. The celebrated champagne producer has come up trumps with this much more-expensive, extremely exclusive Clos d’Ambonnay 2002. Just shy of 5,000 bottles of this fizz were ever created, all made from grapes picked two decades ago, on a single September afternoon. It may have a £3,000 price tag, but this Krug Blancs de Noirs sings with an utterly unique spicy gingerbread sweetness.
Gusbourne Blanc De Noirs Twenty Eighteen
There’s even a deep, decadent example from British shores, with burgeoning boutique winery Gusbourne bottling a mean Blanc de Noirs — one brimming with rich violet and bold cherry — down in Kent. It’s also branded chicly enough to stand its ground alongside the finest French offerings in your cellar. So, whether you’re throwing a get-together for gourmets or simply want to dazzle any connoisseurs on your guest list, that’s why you should spend this party season on the dark side.
Looking for spirits instead? Kentucky’s latest, most lively whiskey goes down the Rabbit Hole…
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