Monaco, the principality that’s the playground of the rich and famous and the sickeningly rich and unimaginably famous. It’s hard to imagine the city-state without the associated levels of wealth that walk its streets, dock in its waters and fly in via rotor blades. It can also be a bit of a stretch to want to take a city break to the locale without the cash in the bank to match its inhabitants, or so you thought.
Despite its vast pools of cold hard cash, Monaco has a more affordable side, a side that allows you to take in the inimitable sights, sounds and smells, a sensory experience that is only heightened during Grand Prix weekend. Having not long passed, the Formula One circus ramps up the atmosphere in the city, electrifying the ambience and bringing a carnival aping feel to the narrow streets.
Circuit de Monaco holds a certain reverence in the world of motorsport, a gravitas that separates it from the track courses due, in no small part, to its boundless history. The city itself though is intrinsically connected to F1, many of the drivers past and present call the spot home and of course, the roads themselves comprise the track during a few hours a day.
Even if you’re not watching from your trackside yacht, there’s still plenty of high octane action to be had.
“Monaco gives you a unique experience, when you go home after the Monaco Grand Prix, you have a memory, a memory that you will never forget” says former champion Mika Häkkinen.
Formula One naturally opens itself up to criticism as a spectator sport. How can it not? On most circuits you’ll glimpse mere seconds of the machines each lap for a few hours, and that’s about it. In comparison, Monaco allows for those, even without a ticket, to pitch up on the famed hills to watch the action from an almost bird’s-eye view. The city circuit almost immerses you into the race, according to Fernando Alonso:
“It’s always special. The fans enjoy this race, being so close to the circuit. In a normal race they are 100m to 200m from a corner, here they can almost touch the car. We come so close by, two or three metres from the wall, the rail and the grandstand.”
The track also amalgamates back into the road network during downtime and it’s possible to run the circuit or, in the evening, the famous bend transforms into a nightclub-cum-street party. An experience to truly drink in, no less because just a few hours after last call, the asphalt will be good to race on once again.
Of course, there’s far more to the city than burning rubber and the sweet smell of petrol on race day. And a lot of it is surprisingly affordable, certainly more affordable than you’re imagining – especially when you’re armed with insider knowledge on the microstate’s hidden gems.
Whilst the South of France, particularly the principality, is a galaxy of Michelin stars, there remains spectacular eateries that haven’t yet been anointed but remain a treat to both the gullet and the wallet. Huit et Demi, for example, is pleasantly priced with a range of superb meat and fish dishes that are worth toasting bon appétit to. Alternatively, one local trick is to head to the much higher priced, fine dining eateries such as Song Qi or Maya Bay for lunch. The earlier meal is much more reasonable on the bank balance, yet from the same talented team in the kitchen.
Residents Jenson Button and Mika Häkkinen recommend Pulcinella and Stars’N’ Bars, respectively, for local gems that are a little off the tourist trail, whilst Cipriani’s is Button’s locale of choice to chow down when he’s in town.
At just two square kilometres, Monaco isn’t in a big place, in case you hadn’t noticed. Yet there are plenty of nooks, crannies and quirks to get your nose into and explore. The palace, for example, is a tourist hotspot, naturally, but a little known fact is that at 10pm every evening, a guard emerges with a trumpet to inform those in the vicinity that the prince is sleeping. Plage Mala is also a beautiful hidden beach accessed by a stony coastal path, sentier littoral, or from steps in Cap D’ail. Alternatively, take a trip out on a vintage Riva boat, bringing a touch of old school sensibility to your break, and moor up in the bay at Plage Mala or simply enjoy the surrounding coastline from afar. If you want your feet firmly on the ground, indulge in the outdoor cinema that emerges during the summer months: the Cinema D’ete popup projects onto a screen in front of the prison wall.
With Italy and France both just on the doorstep also, there’s plenty to take in away from the capital itself. Button often cycles to Italy “to keep in shape, enjoy time with friends to get a proper espresso.” Whilst heading out a just a little to Eze and La Fort de la Rever offers potentially the best panoramic view of the Riviera.
Monaco may have the pursuits of the financially blessed at its heart, but there’s a raft of local cultural spots and hidden gems to take in when budget is a bit of a stumbling block.
Quotes and images (via LAT Photographic) provided by Johnnie Walker. For more information of Johnnie Walker’s commitment to end drink driving, visit jointhepact.com
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