An oral history of the peacoat (and the best to buy right now)
From sailor staple to sartorial essential, we take a look at the best this outerwear style has to offer
Much like other sartorial classics, the origins of the peacoat are firmly cemented in the past. With its roots in Dutch military history as a general issue naval jacket, the humble peacoat is now widely considered a mainstay in menswear. And, like the longer line trench coat, the piece has nimbly transcended its functional military origins. The sturdy crossover design was cleverly developed to withstand harsh temperatures at sea as early as the 16th century, and can still be seen on the streets of many major cities today.
French actor and singer-songwriter Serge Gainsbourg lending some typical Gallic flair to his peacoat in 1965
Timmy de Pizza provides a style overhaul for the men in white coats at the Neil Barret Fashion Show, Milan, 2024
Having been introduced by the Dutch, the pea coat takes its name from the word pijjakker, in which pij referred to the name of the heavy twill cloth that was used in the original design, and jakker meant a short, heavy coat. The garment was taken up by the British and American navies in the 1930s, which sent it global. So global, in fact, that the likes of Robert Redford (who favoured larger collars and heavier buttons), the trés chic Frenchman Serge Gainsbourg and later Bob Dylan all made it their own.
Richard James peacoat, £1,145. richard-james.com
Auralee peacoat, £1,075. mytheresa.com
Drake's peacoat, £995. drakes.com
The jacket soon became essential wear for Hollywood’s leading men. Perhaps the most famous actor to wear a peacoat recently would be Daniel Craig as 007, who champi- oned a heavy-shouldered navy version for 2012’s Skyfall. Bond was a Royal Naval Reserve Commander, and his own peacoats were the product of American designer Billy Reid.
Thom Sweeney peacoat, £2,425. mytheresa.com
Private White VC, £850. privatewhitevc.com
But the items worn by the actors of our time — and indeed the peacoats you can buy at most outfitters — aren’t quite like those stiff, all-weather jackets of old that would protect sailors from the elements while on deck in the high seas. Instead, they’re slicker, lighter, shorter, and better suited to everyday wear. Weather-proof, yes, but with a bit more nonchalance about them.
It’s telling that many brands have space for them in their collections. Whether it’s the Gallic powerhouses of Saint Laurent and Celine or the prep masters at Ralph Lauren, peacoats have earned their place in the wardrobes of any self-respecting man.
This feature was taken from our Winter 2024 issue. Read more about it here.
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