Words: Josh Lee
In association with:
If you’re a man of a certain style, chances are that you own a pair or two of superb leather shoes. From full-grain to polished, these forms of timeless footwear aren’t only universally appealing, but they’re hard-wearing, too. Yet, despite being made of the tough stuff, they still demand that you look after them with care and reverence.
It’s a straightforward process, and if you do it properly, it’ll prolong the lifespan of your shoes and boots by a good few years. Here, we’ve teamed up with legendary shoemaker Cheaney to show you how to do it right.
01. Invest in the right kit
First, we recommend you purchase some wooden shoe trees – inserting them into your footwear after each use will soak up any excess moisture and will help them retain their shape. (Not wearing the same pair every day will also allow for recovery time.) Try these on for size.
Regarding the applied products, go for a high-quality beeswax polish. Options on the cheaper end, which use artificial additives, will cause cracking and premature ageing. And, of course, match the polish to the colour of your leather. Here’s our recommended range.
We also advise that you invest in two cremes: a neutral Renovateur creme and a coloured one. These are more to do with nourishment and conditioning. The former can be seen as a moisturiser for your footwear, as it hydrates the leather; the latter has a higher pigment, and will therefore not only hydrate but will also restore colour. Plump for one (or a few) of these.
02. A guide to polishing
A key step in keeping up your leather footwear’s appearance, polishing is an easy-to-follow process that, if done regularly, will maintain a bright, clean look and won’t take too much of your time.
- Before you start polishing, check that your shoes aren’t wet or damp
- If dry, insert your shoe trees, remove any laces, and use a horse hair brush to get rid of any dust and dirt
- Now, it’s time to clean the welt, the part where the sole joins the upper, and an area that attracts a fair bit of dirt. Get a welt brush, apply a tiny amount of polish, then get to work in every nook and cranny
- Next, focus on the rest of the shoe. Grab a cotton cloth, dab it in some polish and apply it to the surfaces in small circular motions. A touch of pressure will also push the wax into the leather, creating a nice shine. To note, don’t use too much polish; use a little bit as you go along
- Apply polish to the sides of the heels and sides of the soles
- Leave the polish on the shoe for anywhere between 20 minutes to overnight. The longer it’s on, the better
- Then, grab a horsehair polishing brush, and, using steady, long strokes, go over the entire shoe. Doing so will remove excess polish and the friction will bring out a shine
- One good thing to know is that, if you’re time-poor, all Cheaney stores offer a complimentary polishing service on the label’s shoes. Moreover, if you book a repair this February with Cheaney, you’ll receive 20% off your next pair. To find out more, click here
03. A guide to creme application
- Apply the Renovateur in small amounts with a cloth, then leave to dry for approximately 10 minutes
- Buff it off with a polishing brush before applying the coloured creme using the same method
Want more from the label? Step inside its New Bond Street store…
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